Finding The Pearl

Hector here. Today's entry is photo intensive. So... there. 

We woke up in Coos Bay in our Spa room and headed north along the Oregon coast. We heard over and over again about this coast and how stunning, rugged and varied it is. As with most of our trip, we did very little research about (or planning for) this leg. For the first time in our journey, our lack of preparation was noticed. Much of the 101 is a bit inland from the coast, so you really have to know where to turn off and stop.

So when the road cut back to the coast and we saw signs for Sea Lion Caves, we took advantage and stopped. Amanda was pretty excited:

It's actually a pretty great place. There are hundreds of Sea Lions living along this short stretch of the Oregon coast, sunning themselves outside during the summer months and flopped in a kind of orgiastic opium den-like cave during the winter. In the 1930's, an opportunistic Oregonian family figured out they could charge admission to see the Sea Lions, and they have been printing money ever since. 

As I mentioned, Amanda was pretty excited.

Actually it's fair to say she was extremely excited. 

We were surrounded by very lush landscape as we approached our 2000 mile mark. Apparently the odometer resets itself at 2000 miles, so we were given a fresh start.

We made it to Portland in time for drinks in the Pearl District. We're staying with Ryan, a friend from Madison who moved to Portland four years ago. He sent us exploring while he attended a surprise party. This gave us a chance to check out a few spots in the Pearl and North West of 23rd Street districts. Bar Mingo on 21st street was a good place to start, due in part to the fact that Ryan's girlfriend Mary was working there and took good care of us. 

From Mingo we walked to 13th street for drinks and oysters at Bluehour, which is situated right next door to the Wieden and Kennedy office. As we enjoyed our drinks, Ana Laan's "Para El Dolor" played in the background. 

Finally we met up with Ryan, Mary and a few of their friends at Clyde Commons for a delicious late dinner. 

Portland's Pearl District is a hip, vibrant area. It's fair to call it gentrified and possibly yuppified. But it's also very comfortable, walkable, and filled with restaurants, bars, shops and businesses (including Ryan's Survey Monkey company).

We headed to Saucebox for one more drink.

We fell asleep with two in the bed and woke with three. Meet Ally. 

Portland has a huge urban park called Forest Park which is filled with rough unpaved paths through what feels like a forest. We ran and hiked, and found everyone we passed to be extremely friendly and chatty.

Ryan could definitely work for the Portland department of tourism. He took us (along with his dad) to the excellent farmers market:

And then to the less yuppy Mississippi (street? lane? avenue? boulevard? district?) for tacos at Por Que No.

The food was great! The scene on the street was nice, and reminded me of Williamson Street in Madison or South Congress in Austin.

We then walked down Mississippi past the Fresh Pot coffee shop...

...down a funky stretch of the street to a cafe that Ryan sold as serving the best coffee in Portland.

It was good coffee.

And they had art.

Portland, you are impressive. I'll give you that. Maybe tomorrow I'll speak about the seedy underbelly of the city, about how it has the highest per capita number of strip clubs, or about the homeless people and beggars, and how Ally needs to spend a day with the dog whisperer. But for the moment I prefer to think of the city as the hip, progressive, bike friendly, home to organic produce and trendy bars that Ryan has showed us.